After a night with beers, Mexican shots and
stories, I got up at 5am yesterday to jump on a second class bus to Tizimin with Pedro where
we would – if lucky – change straight away to another bus for Río Lagartos. It
was pitch dark when we escaped from the hostel to the bus station. The
connection to Río had gone when we got to Tizimin so we went to see if we could
find a collectivo (a shared taxi van) but no luck either. So we walked around
the poor little town and had a fantastic 10 peso breakfast. I can tell you there
are zero tourists in Tizimin - and frankly the only interesting thing to see is
the local people!
When we got to Río Lagartos it was already
around 10am. Río Lagartos is a natural reserve about a 100km north of
Valladolid, on the coast of the Yucatan peninsula, known for the local wildlife
– flamingos, pelicans and crocodolies among others. The bus, and the two of us,
was greeted by a guide just as I expected, who escorted us to through the empty
street to the port.
We must have been the only people in the fishing village or so it appeared. Tour guide Gabriel in the photo. |
We bargained for a price for a boat tour to the estuary. Our
guide Gabriel took us and the boat out to the windy “river” and we were anxious
to see the pink birds! Before the flamenco area there were lots of seagulls, pelicans, storks, terns
and other birds peaking at the bushes along the estuary and
hovering above. Gabriel easily spotted several crocs between the branches here
and there even though they were totally invisible to us in the beginning.
Crocodile - not alligator like the name says and the Spaniards falsely assumed .. it's not a river either. |
Finally we arrived, past the salt fields, to
the flamingo spot. And there they were, little groups of tens of pink
flamingos. As we approached them quietly the birds would determinedly walk away
with their long legs and ultimately run to a take-off if we got too close. I
thought the flamingos looked so funny with their big eyes, waddling away. And
their color was simply beautiful, very deep coral pink.
On the way back to the pier I asked Gabriel to
drive us to the mud field so that I could try the local clay mask – which they
told me would make my skin soft and possibly make me look 3 years younger! :D
Since we had just missed a bus back to Tizimin
we hopped on a collectivo to the neighboring seaside village of San Felipe
where we had a nice fish and shrimp meal. San Felipe was – if possible – even more
deserted than Río Lagartos but at least on the way back we got to see a very
interesting and stunning local cemetery and we scaled to a local bird tower. If you want an 'off the beaten track' place that's your place!
It
was a rewarding experience all round!
I decided I needed one more peaceful day
before I could move on and was happy to hear my room was available for another
night. On my last day in Valladolid I rented a bike from the hostel and cycled
to a cenote outside the town. 7km from Valladolid there are two interesting
cenotes next to one another: I visited the Samulá. It’s a stunning cavern with
the height of tens of meters. From a hole the diameter of a couple meters there’s
a tree that has roots that drop down to the bottom to drink the clear cenote
water. The cavern is lit all around and the water is filled with small fish.
It was a nice bike ride from town, I really enjoy
the freedom and fresh air while cycling and there is a paved (though not in the
best shape but totally ok to ride) bike road along the highway so it’s very
safe. I also visited a village closeby, Dzitnup, and was greeted by warm
smiles from the local passers-by everywhere I went – like all round in the little part of Mexico I've seen so far, both on and off the tourist/traveller areas. They seem to be happiest and most polite people I have met!
This little niña was happy to pose for me in San Felipe - I asked if I could take a picture of her and got the biggest smile ever :) |
Tomorrow I’ll head onwards to Merida where I
plan to spend the weekend. I thoroughly enjoyed Valladolid, it’s a lovely
laidback Mexican town with tons of history, all in a well manageable form,
ready for you to enjoy without feeling like you’re in a tourist trap! I met
some fantastic people too and feel yet more confident I’m on the right track with
my trip.
No comments:
Post a Comment