We left at 9am from Copacabana and just about half an hour later we were
already at the Bolivian/Peruvian border. We got back to the bus after the
standard (but fast) border formalities and continued on. Suddenly we were making
an extra change in a town called Jumica and got told we’d have to wait a half an hour for the
bus to Puno. The locals were laughing about the half an hour wait and in fact it turned out to be close to two hours before our bus arrived: Us and what felt like 100 Bolivians or Peruvians with a truckload of luggage
(each) crammed on the same bus, pushing and shoving the tiny bus corridor. Then
another change in Puno and I was exhausted… at least there we didn’t have to
wait for long but it also meant we had pretty much no time to get anything to
eat. Also the ATMs didn’t work in the Puno station so I went to change my
remaining bolivianos in the currency exchange / pharmacy so I could pay the
departure tax (which seems to be the norm in all the Peruvian bus stations: 1-2
soles).
Tired, hungry and annoyed by all the extra stops we were finally in the
bus that would take us to Cusco. What saved me from total desperation was the
good company: Christine and also a group of Argentinians who were helpful in
understanding what was going during the trip. Finally, after the very shabby
looking border regions and Puno, the views started to get spectacular about
three-four hours after Puno. The road goes between velvety green hills and
farms on the left and snow topped mountains on the right. So
finally I was in the beautiful Perú! After having left at 9am we arrived at
around 8.30pm local time to Cusco. The lights / the power was out and frankly it
looked like we are arriving to an abandoned city… But when we got off the bus
the city was back alive, in lights. I was happy to get to my nice hostel, take
a hot shower and go to bed. I even had wifi in my room so I could chat with my
friends, just lying under my blanket :)
The next morning the first thing on my agenda was to make sure I had a
ticket to Machu Picchu. I actually thought I had bought a ticket online but when I
checked to make sure that morning it turned out the payment hadn’t gone through
and I had none!! So it was off to find the ticket office (Ministry of Culture,
INIC) in Cusco and hope for the best! I had booked my train tickets so that I
had two and a half days at Aguas Calientes (Machu Picchu Pueblo, just a short
bus ride from the site) but I was hoping to get a ticket for one specific day. It took a little bit of looking around to find the office but I was there
around 10am and lined up. And yes: I got one of the last nine tickets! That was pretty close.... Well,
there were still a couple other options but I happy I got just the ticket I was
looking for!
I had two days to wander in Cusco before the Machu
Picchu trip so enough time to look around the main sights, do some shopping and also have lunch & dinner with Christine before she left on a trek. Cusco is beautiful
both day and night – I heard the nightlife is pretty good but I was so tired
both nights I was just happy to get to bed after dinner. But during the day I
covered most of the downtown – lots of impressive churches, pristine plazas,
wide avenues, souvenir & clothes shops of all types (and for all wallets).
As usual, when you step a bit out of the most touristy are you’ll find lots of interesting things too: I could recommend a lovely restaurant - Don Mateo at Pumacahua 200 – looks like it’s only open for lunch or maybe I was just unlucky that one night I tried to also go for dinner. Lunch menu (starter, soup and main course + a drink) 8 soles – mains on the a la carte 15-25 soles ( in the center menus go for 15 soles and up, mains on the a la carte from 25 and up). All the food was really well made, stylish portions, great service and nice athmosphere.
Plaza de las Armas (like all the main squares seem to be called) |
As usual, when you step a bit out of the most touristy are you’ll find lots of interesting things too: I could recommend a lovely restaurant - Don Mateo at Pumacahua 200 – looks like it’s only open for lunch or maybe I was just unlucky that one night I tried to also go for dinner. Lunch menu (starter, soup and main course + a drink) 8 soles – mains on the a la carte 15-25 soles ( in the center menus go for 15 soles and up, mains on the a la carte from 25 and up). All the food was really well made, stylish portions, great service and nice athmosphere.
After spending almost three days in Aguas Calientes I came back to Cusco for one more day. I didn't have anything particular I was dying to do so just decided to walk around and see what I come up with. My shoes were in dire condition so it was a perfect opportunity to support one local shoe shine boy - and even just in a couple minutes he did some miracles and my shoes had never been that shiny!
Since I had some extra time I wondered off to the top of the hill beside Cusco to see the Sacsayhuaman ruins and the Cristo Blanco (it costs 70 soles to enter the Sacsayhuaman or you can also buy tourist ticket that gets you in several sites in Cusco for
130 soles). The Christ lays on the same area, on top of the hills but is outside
the ruins (no need to pay to get there although you may need a car to come to
there from the other side of the hill). After Machu Picchu I didn't find the ruins that interesting but it was a good way to spend a sunny day. For some reason my feet were really tired and by the end of the day I could barely lift them up.
Cusco was lovely and after seeing some shabby towns like Puno on the way there I'd say it's a fairly nice place to be. Most people (and that's a lot of people every year) come there only to get to Machu Picchu so yes, it's very touristy but not in the worst way. But three days was enough, it was a good time to get on the overnight bus to southern Perú, Arequipa. --- But before about Arequipa, I'll write about Machu Picchu in my next post!
What would Peruvian ruins be without some alpacas? |
View of the Plaza de las Armas from the hill |
Cusco was lovely and after seeing some shabby towns like Puno on the way there I'd say it's a fairly nice place to be. Most people (and that's a lot of people every year) come there only to get to Machu Picchu so yes, it's very touristy but not in the worst way. But three days was enough, it was a good time to get on the overnight bus to southern Perú, Arequipa. --- But before about Arequipa, I'll write about Machu Picchu in my next post!
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